Hey peeps,
I had a salesman come out to my house in Brisbane a few days ago to sell me some roof restoration because our tiled roof is in bad shape.
The guy was friendly and professional and I went on the roof to look at it with him and it really does need work. Broken tiles, deteriorated grouting/ridges etc. though not leaking yet.
His product is a membrane coating, rather than just paint, so it lasts a lot longer.
They pressure test and clean the roof, replace broken tiles and then do a few waterproof coats and coloured membrane.
It seems a few companies do membranes and it sounds like the way to go.
Our roof is 216m2.
The company was called Roofglaze and the quote was for $5200.
I rang another company today called Perfect Glaze and was quoted $4700 for their top of the line membrane.
Just wondering if anyone has experience with either company?
While I don’t mind going Roofglaze, I could really use the $500 savings going with Perfect Glaze.
Most tile roofs look crap up close, with many broken bits, missing mortar etc. But unless you have tiles cracked or broken in such a way that they actually let water into the roof space, they are usually fine. And the easiest way to fix leaks if you have them is to replace the broken tiles, not spray thick goo everywhere.
These membrane blokes came and gave us their spiel about ten years ago, along with diagrams about how bad our tiles were (we had just bought the house), but in the end I decided not to go ahead with their services. The roof still hasn’t leaked. I’d leave it alone and avoid all those blokes moving around up there.
Most tile roofs look crap up close, with many broken bits, missing mortar etc. But unless you have tiles cracked or broken in such a way that they actually let water into the roof space, they are usually fine. And the easiest way to fix leaks if you have them is to replace the broken tiles, not spray thick goo everywhere.
These membrane blokes came and gave us their spiel about ten years ago, along with diagrams about how bad our tiles were (we had just bought the house), but in the end I decided not to go ahead with their services. The roof still hasn’t leaked. I’d leave it alone and avoid all those blokes moving around up there.
I agree entirely, and its the first Ive heard the paint called a ‘membrane’ which is what paint is after all, and sounds like BS to me — Remember roof tiles have been around for thousands of years and survived without ANY ‘membrane’.
Its just an aesthetic thing that once done will have to be re-done every 7–8 years, so save your money
Thanks for your input guys.
From what the salesman told me the term membrane comes from the amount of water in the mixture.
Paint has a much higher water content than a membrane and as such deteriorates much quicker.
It is apparantly an industry standard, as being classed as a membrane needs to have a less than %. I will check the amounts tonight and edit this post.
check with your local fair trading/consumer affairs office – there are some ‘cowboy companies’ doing this type of work.
there was a thread awhile back on WP somewhere about ‘roof restoration’ co’s and the shonks
See those broken tiles they say they replace, they dont.
They move them to the gutter line where you cant see them.
Get someone out to redo the ridges/grouting but painting the roof is not necessary.
A decent roofer will replace your cracked tiles and redo the ridge capping/pointing if needed. He won’t try and sell you a paint job. A properly maintained roof doesn’t need paint to make it waterproof.
Don’t fall for the sales pitch of the companies that tell you your roof needs painting. If you look into it you’ll find you can retile you roof for not much more than some of these companies charge to paint it.
Suggest that before you do anything get a few roof tilers in to do an inspection and quote. That’s what I did.
Oh, and even though they call it a waterproof membrane (to sound impressive), it’s just acrylic paint.
I was told by the tradesman that those cosmetic steps such as repaint, high-pressure clean are unnecessary for tiles
The company was called Roofglaze
Yep, had them come out earlier this year … similar quote, same spiel.
… left with a comment,
‘It’s a wonder that roof isn’t leaking already, it’s really bad’…
Problem was, the day after he checked the roof we had a fair bit of rain and I had a wet patch on the back bathroom ceiling 😦
Went up and had a look. A freshly cracked tile right over the bathroom,
2 story house, right over in the back corner … cracked longways all the way through… mmm. — I replaced it myself with a spare from the shed —
Now i’m not insinuating anything, and I couldn’t be bothered trying to follow it up, but he did say my roof was the worst he’d seen in 10 years and needed to be done straight away.
Funny thing is, been here 7 years, and I only gernied it myself last year. Yes it does need the ridge capping done, No leaks.
It rained like hell, the week before, no leaks.
He checks the roof … ( spose he could have accidentally cracked it and not noticed )
Anyway, as already stated, get a roof tiler to check it out 1st, and you’ll probably find all you need is the ridge caps re-pointing.
Just be careful !
I agree 100% with above comments it is aesthetic only your roof will not leak unless you have cracked tiles.
If you are really worried put the money towards a colourbond roof.
Concrete tiles only last max 7 years and they lose the colour, but will not leak.
Concrete tiles only last max 7 years and they lose the colour, but will not leak
Im assuming you mean they will fade in 7 years but will last a lifetime?
Colourbond roofing will start to fade after 7 years too
If it’s not leaking don’t worry about it?
Does the look bother you? If not put that money towards your mortgage and pay your home off sooner.
If it has to be fixed then get a quote for either another tiled roof or colourbond, you’ll find that for a bit more(depending on size) you’ll have a new roof.
Or do what we do with our 60 year old crumbling concrete tiles, we replace them with a stash that I bought at a second hand dealer.
They make it sound attractive, but in the end you are simply coating OLD TILES.
Cheers
The company was called Roofglaze and the quote was for $5200.
Dodgy.
I rang another company today called Perfect Glaze and was quoted $4700 for their top of the line membrane.
Dodgier.
While I don’t mind going Roofglaze, I could really use the $500 savings going with Perfect Glaze.
Why not do it yourself? It’s not hard.
Will take about 6 hours to do properly given it’s a warm/hot day when you do it as drying times for each process will vary depending on temperature.
First replace any cracked/chipped tiles.
Then get a Gerni and clean the tiles.
Rebed any loose ridge caps with some sand and cement.
Repoint with any pointing compound like Elasto-Max to any part of the roof you have to rebed.
Spray roof with a fungacide.
Seal the roof with a primer.
Apply Astec Energy Star Paint and save money cooling your house through summer.
Total savings doing it yourself; approx $12,000 plus the massive energy saving costs from using Astec Paints.
Im a Bsa licensed painter, and have been working exclusively in the roof restoration industry for 10 years now, in Brisbane… Ive subcontracted work off nearly all the Big names here and would like to Blow the lid off the the Prices for Roof restoration…
Heres the Facts….
In 90% of cases your job will be subcontracted out to a Roof restorer with no BSA licence to speak of… probably not even tradesman at all… they just have roof resto experience… sometimes a lot.. sometimes stuff all… some can do a nice clean point job… some will be so rough it will look like a monkey threw it on….
He will be paid $4.50 per meter to wash, point and paint 3 coats on your roof…. maybe a little more… maybe a little less… but thats the average..
The Paint costs are outside that , Quality paint.. including Nutech, at trade price goes for around $100 for sealer, and $140 for “Membrane” per 20lt bucket.
The average $200sq/m Roof will use around 2 drums of sealer and 6 drums of membrane… if applied to correct thickness… which most companys dont.
If you are getting a repoint only, he will be paid $3 per barge cap… and be expected to provide his own Repointing compound in that price…
Ill paint a roof Properly for as little as $1.60 Per sq/m…
Rebeds are an extra $4 per cap.. including concrete and sand…
There wouldnt be many Roof’s out there i couldnt do for $2500 all inclusive and still make a good profit… But these companys get away will charging double that… IT’s ALL Profit… normally $600 to $800 goes to the salesman.. the rest to the boss…
I give honest quotes to people all the time…. go in for around $3k…. and lose out to the more expensive quotes because people feel like they are going to get more from the bigger company…..
But thats not the case… how thorough a pressure clean job or paint job do you think your going to get for $1.60 p/m?
It certainly wouldnt be as careful, or as thorough as when the tradesman was making some profit…
my 2 cents…..
Hi mate, was just reading your roof resto comments. Just had a guy look at my tiled roof which is leaking. He says the clips are an older style and are not effective, house is around 30 years old. He says he can replace a few clips that are obviously leaking, but sooner or later the roof needs replacing. Does this sound right? Would it be possible to reuse tiles and replace clips? What sort of money would I be looking at for the alternative options? I would appreciate your feedback.
Yes its true.. in some cases the older style flat tin clips cause water to drip down them when the watercourse of the tile gets full(of water)….. Normally in this case we replace all of the old clips with the newer style clips…. which generally fixes the problem…. You can normally get someone in to do a ‘strip and clip” for around 8-12 dollars per sq/m….. Thats removing all tiles to reclip them all….
Worst case they can do a strip…. put new builders paper down to waterproof under the tiles and then relay all the old tiles…..
If you are insured you should contact them about the leaking… most cases they will pay for the strip and clip… ive even seen people get there whole roof replaced though insurance for similar issues….
If you can climb into your roof cavity with a torch when its raining you could identify the leaking clips.. then just spray the leak from underneath with fluro pink paint… and just get those leaking tiles reclipped…. or just remove the clips in those spots…. the roof would be fine minus 100 clips or so….
Not all the clips will be leaking… so as much as it a pain… climbing in your ceiling to mark the leaks is gonna be your cheapest option….
Those prices are Brisbane prices.. not sure what they charge in other states….
good luck
In extreme cases… and i dont really recommend this…. if the roof isnt very big.. or there are only a few problem areas…. you could just “Sikaflex” up the watercourses to stop and water getting in…. this will work %100 and is pretty cheap to do…. but stuffs you if you ever want to replace tiles for one reason or another… also it pays to wash the roof first to give the Sikaflex something to stick too…
This is a last resort really…. and ive only done it a handful of times in the rare cases that a strip and clip fails to work completly….
as far as heat entering the roof, do any roof people know if clean cement tiles reflect heat better than dirty tiles that haven’t been washed in 30 years?
I was trying to think of this logically. When you get dirt on things, dirt will often work as a insulator so bad for things like heat sinks in your computer or the condenser of your air conditioner, but for a roof, wouldn’t a dirty tile work better at stopping heat getting into your roof?
Concrete loves to suck in the heat but maybe dirt covered concrete tiles would preform better than a straight concrete tile?
So cleaning a roof with a high pressure washer might be worse than just leaving it alone if your only problem is heat entering the roof?
His product is a membrane coating
but you’ve already got a membrane coating?…it’s called dirt, mold, lichen, moss, etc…and it’ll outlast any hitech space junk that some dodgy salesrep is trying to palm you!
replace broken tiles
as already suggested, just get a roof tiler to repair and repoint.
as far as heat entering the roof, do any roof people know if clean cement tiles reflect heat better than dirty tiles that haven’t been washed in 30 years?
If your tiles are light in colour i dare say they would reflect heat better in a clean state… the light colored tiles seem to look almost white when cleaned and just the oxide is exposed…
I really dont think haveing a dirty roof would give you a measurable heat reduction over a clean one in most cases…
replace broken tiles
Just came upon this forum. I am in the process of getting quotes ($5700-$4500) for roof restoration (they incl rebedding, repointing, storm sealing valleys, cleaning, painting etc. etc.) when all I want is repairs to fix leaks through broken & cracked concrete tiles (approx 35) and some broken clips. I am being conned aren’t I?
Will now get on to roof tilers to quote on replacing tiles & all clips. Can anyone recommend an honest tradie in Brisbane? THANKS HEAPS
Hi Chookpoo,
we had our tin roof “restored” and painted in a cream colour almost 4 yrs ago and now there is so much fungal growth on it, it looks worse than before we had it done. Our neighbour had hers done by the same company before us, but in green and hers still looks great. The 10yr “guarantee” say’s “too bad, so sad!!!” if this happens. Have you heard of any issues with the cream colour compared to darker colours? Not getting anywhere so far with the company involved.
Yes.. i always try to get people to stay away from “light” colours because they dont heat up enough to kill the mould spores.
Any roof done in white or smooth cream of the age yours is would look filthy… unless it was done in a dry area like Mt isa….
It doesnt help that we’ve had a lot of wet weather either.
If the roof was done properly… there should be know problem pressure cleaning it.
we just signed up with Roofglaze couple of weeks ago! i’m kicking myself that i haven’t been looking on the web forums to get some feedbak on this company or any other company as a matter of fact. we probably had the same bloke (sales person) who showed up for the orginal poster Applor. he got me and my brother up there and pretty much said how bad the roof tiles condition was….and lucky that we haven’t experienced any leaking etc… but the thing is we did right on top of our main entrance door. but the sales man couldn’t really see where that could have leaked from etc. anyways, he said and showed that many tiles and ridges were cracked. and we really need to do this restoration asap. i called around few places and they all seem to comeup with the similar sort of a figure… $4700-$5800. in the end the sales guys pretty much convinced us…he chased us up for many days…kept coming knocking on the door asking for updates…etc so we ended up signing up later on for $5000. he pretty much gave us $800 discount because we will pay cash. now after seeing all these posts and specially seeing chookpoo’s post i’m so gutted… we might be getting ripped of big time.
one guy just came in today to clean the roof as it’s been raining so he mentioned it will be all soft etc so using plain water with high pressure will clean it all. i think the sales guy mentioned they will use some sort of chemicals to clean the roof. anyways…. now we are wondering how much of water bill we are going to get…because the guys been up there for 2-3 hours with high pressure water….
is it too late to just get them to stop here and we pay for the roof cleaning only?
please suggest what we should do???? they are to use membrane coating too (industry standard) but after reading all the posts…doesn’t sound like its all that expensive…and we could’ve done the job for 1.5k less atleast!!!
is there a way out of this? shall i call the sales guy or the head office and stop here?? Please advice someone…..
High pressure water cleaners use very little water, as they spray out a very hi pressure jet with little water volume , so you wont get a big water bill.
Water bill will be minimal, Roof glaze use a decent paint so you should be fine…. one of the guys that works there is the best roof painter around PERIOD. His name is Mark slater, so if your lucky enough to get him, you will get an awsome resto.
Chemicals are generally only used to clean terracotta’s because they are so mouldy… so useing just high pressure to clean the roof is fine….
$5000 is about what most of the bigger company’s charge to do resto’s…. they have higher overheads and salesman to pay….
You probably could have saved quite a bit if you went for the little guy… but then you would have had to trust him, which is difficult nowadays….
Youve probably just gotta let it ride now…. if you decide to pull out…. let me know.. ill finish it for ya for a sweeeet price…lol
membrane?
I agree, that word is thrown around way to much in the roof paint game…. its just acrylic paint… all be it with more solids then normal, so its a bit thicker….
A “membrane” by definition allows fluids to pass one direction through it but not the other….
thanks Chookpoo for your advices and offer. i’ve asked the sales person to get Mark for our Roof’s job. haven’t heard back from him yet. thanks again.
Hehehehehhehe this is the funniest thread I have read for a long time…..
People still getting sucked in, it’s amazing………………….
Ive heard the paint called a ‘membrane’ which is what paint is after all, and sounds like BS to me — Remember roof tiles have been around for thousands of years and survived without ANY ‘membrane’.
Not quite right. Concrete (not ceramic) roof tiles have not been around for thousands of years 🙂
In my old house the tiles became porous and were allowing water through, not much yet enough to make a few stains on the ceiling. Painting fixed it.
Not quite right. Concrete (not ceramic) roof tiles have not been around for thousands of years 🙂
not quite right!
http://www.monier.com.au/Professional/ArchitecturalManual/Downloads/CSR_Roofing_ArchManual_S6.pdf
not quite right!
http://www.monier.com.au/Professional/ArchitecturalManual/Downloads/CSR_Roofing_ArchManual_S6.pdf
not quite right!
It says “The first concrete tiles were produced in Germany in 1844” which makes them 168 years old, not thousands. 🙂
Hi guys, I’m new to this forum & stumbled across it when googling ‘Roofglaze’. We signed up to have our roof restored with them as we were quoted $4000, 12mths interest free, which seemed appealing. Over the past QLD rainy season, we had a leak in our lounge due to cracked tile, so getting the roof fixed is def a priority. But since reading this forum, I’m now wondering weather we actually need the roof painted as such with this so called wonderful ‘membrane’ stuff??? I emailed the sales guy this morning, asking for an additional quote with all the repair work but minus the primer/sealer/paint & this was his reply…..
Now in regards to your concerns. Just painting your roof with an acrylic paint is just cosmetic, because a paint will not keep the roof sealed from water, and eventually peels off. What we use to coat the roof is a German membrane system like the sample I showed you , it’s not a paint. This product actually seals all your concrete tiles and ridge caps, and won’t allow water to soak into the tiles. The reason why you get 20 cracked tiles on your roof and leaks and ridge caps cracking is from water soaking into the tiles, because after 10-15 years they lose there seal and become porous( sponge like ) and when it rains the water soaks in, making them heavy which causes the roof to move from the extra weight. So by completely sealing the roof with the membrane , it stops the movement and the rain just hits the tiles, beads and falls into the gutters. The colour part of it is just a bonus of the job. The aim of the restoration is to fix all the cracked tiles, fix the pointing and ridge caps and most importantly stop the cause of the problems by making all the tiles water sealed again.
Sooooooo does this sound correct or should I keep pushing for it to be repaired without the paint? We live at the top of a hill, where noone can see our roof so this is another reason why the ‘cosmetic’ side of the restoration isn’t necessary to us 🙂
Also, we are still within our 10 day cooling off period (is this working days by the way does anyone know?) so have rights to still pull out of contract, so any ASAP feedback would be hugely appreciated!!!!
I know the paint roofglaze use, its called colortile and its manufactured in Hillcrest, brisbane, i use it myself. Its made with the Rohm & hass 1038 acrylic resin, which is great.
But in truth, If you are just after getting you roof watertight… the paint and sealer is definately not required…. you just need tile replacement and a repoint.
If you want to save some bucks, i will happily organize a licensed roof tiler to do the work thats required and you can keep around $3500 of that $4000 in your pocket….. Let me know, ill whim my details if your interested.
a German membrane system like the sample I showed you , it’s not a paint.
Yah, yah, ist made from der finest Deutschland schnaken oil extracted from der almost exschtinct Orange Schpotted Deathadder found only in der Black Forrest. Ist der number vun schnakenoilresin und it schticks to der roofenschingle like der poopens onder baby’s bearschkin rug!
I should point out that the paint they (and myself) use is not expensive, in fact it is the least expensive roof paint i know of that you can buy anywhere…. and ive used em all.
Because there is no marketing attached to the product and the company making it is trying to get a foot hold, they sell it at near cost price….
The Rohm & Hass 1038 resin is used in many brands of roof coating, in fact its in more brands of roof coating then it isnt in, so it aint so special… its just been around a long time and is basically respected as a proven resin as regards weathering ect…
is basically respected as a proven resin as regards weathering ect…
but it’s paint, right? Paint doesn’t fix a broken roof?
If your roof is leaking and broken…fix it!
If your roof is faded or boring…paint it!
So you care to show us EXACTLY where he’s said paint will fix a broken roof?
Maybe you need to look up the definition of “weathering”.
but it’s paint, right?
Yeah its paint, they call it a membrane, but its paint in my books..
Leaks always come from broken tiles, faulty tile clips or deteriorated pointing, or sometimes the watercourses are blocked with dirt and leaves ect.
I am in Brissy and have had my roof restored by Chookpoo. I am a mid generation tradie myself and was present during this process so I know the professionalism & pride in workmanship he showed. All the way he was transparent and honest. I can say that everything that was promised was delivered.
I am very happy to recommend him and his team on this forum and he definitely has become the guy I will be recommending to any family & friends, as well as all job sites that I go to.
One of the best things about this experiance was not having to deal with a salesman who was trying to sell me something i did not need.
Thanks Mate
Oops, I forgot to mention that the price I paid, made me pretty happy as no other quote was close to his.
Thanks again
I had a guy coming to sell me roof clean/ fix/ and seal, quote for a typical 4 br house $5000. Two reasons for them recommending it to be done was; it looks better and stops water been absorbed by the tile and rotting and warping the trusses. I can understand the cosmetic point but the water absorption of the roof tiles, a bit unsure so I had to test it. I took one tile off the roof, from the sunny side to make sure it was the worst possible after 20 years exposed to the elements. I soaked in water, immersed by 75% of the tile (could not fit all in the container) overnight. the tile gained 50grams of weight so practically nothing. the total tile weight is 4.8kg. so in conclusion, the roof tile does not soak up water to a point where it will damage anything. of course leaking joints or broken tiles may do so. A quick calculation of a 200sq metre roof would absorb 90 kg of water. hardly a dangerous weight.
You are correct….. only in extreme cases will the tiles be porous enough to allow excessive moisture in….. im talking some of the really old LGS and atlas tiles that were made 60years ago….
Im gonna put it out there… if anyone would like a second opinion on a roofing quote they have received…. id be happy to have a look at it if your in the brisbane area…. free of charge….
I guarantee not to BS anybody….. and i would never recommend works be done unless they were absolutely necessary…
Im extremely anti-salesman… and i know all the dirty tricks roof restoration companys use to pressure sell job’s….
At the very least… i may be able to put your mind at rest…. and stop you from spending money on unrequired maintenance…
Im happy to help anybody who’s willing to let me…
Hi, if anyone would like to take me up on the inspection thing… please be sure to log back into your account to receive my Whim…. as ive had a lot of requests but as most people dont leave a phone number… the contact is wasted as they never log back in to get my reply…
thanks
Just stumbled across this forum while doing some research for a roof that while isn’t leaking now, has in recent years and drives my stress levels up each time it storms etc.
Many thanks to everyone who has contributed. There is some good info here on a topic I’m sure many are niaive with and considering the investment youre trying to protect, it’s crazy not to ensure a quality outcome.
Chookpoo, I’ve flicked you a whim as Im about to get a quote in Springfield. I really at the moment just want to get someone who knows what they are looking at to make the roof water tight and dependable. Aesthetics I’ll do later when funds permit.
The guy I’ve spoken to seems genuine stating his experience, warranty and when pushed for a general price over the phone for a standard 4bed, double bath house said “usually around $3200-3500” the works. I’m thinking he’d be the sort of guy when asked to make it water tight, he will.
I hate wasting anyone’s time, but given so many negative experiences read around the web I feel it is hard to gauge who to trust. Finally…….
Are there any specific trades or other qualifications involved in roofing we should be requesting? And if so, could I assume insurance companies would want some assurances in this regard?
For some reason DIY roofing to me sounds like a bad idea. A crap load of rain comes down in Brisbane sometimes……and I like the thing I pump most of my cash into to stay dry and safe.
Does anyone know how much a repoint of the ridges would cost for a smallish 3br house?
I’ve been quoted $800 and wanted to make sure it wasn’t over the top.
Interestingly the guy quotes $2400 to repaint as well – but after reading this forum I think i’ll pass.. and just do the ridges as they are all cracked and the concrete is crumbling.
I’ve been quoted $800 and wanted to make sure it wasn’t over the top.
Interestingly the guy quotes $2400 to repaint as well – but after reading this forum I think i’ll pass.. and just do the ridges as they are all cracked and the concrete is crumbling.
$800 for repointing is around the ball park. I had my single story home, 4 bedroom rebedded and repointed last October for $1500 (all the ridges/caps needed to be rebedded and redone with a fair number of caps replaced) and sprayed/sealed it myself for about $1000 in paint and materials
Barters81
have you seen the drainage system http://www.tornadorainhead.com
This allegedly removes water very efficiently.
http://www.abc.net.au/tv/newinventors/txt/s1965006.htm
The reason I have put this here is my husband requested a gutter and downpipe quote from a large company and they told him our roof needed resealing! All we NEED (not want) is new gutters and drainpipes! We only asked a bigger company to compare the gutters & downpipes. I guess the people that give quotes are nothing more than salesmen.
I might as well add this here as it’s sort of related except I’m hoping to not be the doggy tradesman.
I have a flat Cliploc galvanized steel roof that I think is original so it would be about 50 years old.
At some stage it was painted with a brown primer and a silver top coat. It’s getting to the stage that I’ve decided that I’m going to re-paint it myself. There’s now a patch work of surface rust, brown primer & silver top coat.
I’ve already cleaned it with high pressure water gun and have started to wire brush and sand rusted areas & flaky paint.
I’m now looking at what paint to use on the roof.
Looking around on the internet I’ve seen:
Shieldcoat’s ROOFBOND Roofing Paint
Shieldcoat RUSTSHIELD T 2pac anti-corrosive xylene based acrylic sealer
Available from : http://www.solutionindustries.com.au
Using their calculator to do our 200sq/m roof with 1 coat of sealer primer + 2 coats of top coat I’d need:
3 x 15 litre tins of Shieldcoat RUSTSHIELD T 2pac anti-corrosive xylene based acrylic sealer @ $262each.
7 x 15 litre tins of Shieldcoat’s ROOFBOND Roofing Paint @ 172.90
If you add all that up its $2000.00 worth of paint!!
I know this is different to sealing a tiled roof but I’m wondering if this seems excessive or not.
Has anyone had experience with Shieldcoat products? Chookpoo?? Any other recommendations.
I actually like shieldcoats products for tin roof’s…. The Rustshield T is superb…. The prices they have quoted you are WAY high… as i buy Rustshield for $130 per drum…. and roofbond for $109….. and its not my main brand so i dont buy it that often…..
You wont need 3 drums of the Rustshield… it goes a long way… 2 will be plenty… and you will have some left over….. Make sure you buy the thinners to wash out the gun.
You could probably knock a drum off the roofbond as well……
I would brush Penetrol over all the rusty areas before undercoating…..
And be aware…. depending on the quality and type of the previous paint…. because rustshield is Xylene based… it can make the original paint wrinkle and blister if you are unlucky….. particularly if it was done in enamel last time…… you will have to do a test patch first to see what happens…..
They can also add aluminium flakes to the Rustshield T to make it a silver coating….. If you didnt hate silver….. 4 drums OF Rustshield AL …. would be the most economical solution….
If your in brisbane and dont mind picking the paint up direct from shieldcoat….. i might be able to hook you up with better pricing…..
Thanks for your comments Choopoo!!
I’m in Sydney so unfortunately I can’t take you up on your kind offer.
We had a great guy paint the outside of our house about 1 year ago – maybe I’ll ask if he can get the product.
(I would have painted the outside of my house as well but it would have taken too long to do by myself, whereas the roof is one large flat area)
One question I had about applying the paint.
Due to the speed I’m sure most professional painters would use an airless sprayer system to apply the paint.
I noticed that the previous paint especially the red/brown primer coat was done with a brush, I think the previous owner might have done it.
My father who was in the building game before he retired said you could try painting it with a very soft broom.
As I’m going to take my time doing this, I’ve already spent nearly 3 weekends cleaning and wire brushing, patching areas on the roof, do you think this is a viable technique?
I’m going to have to buy/hire and airless spray gun plus cut in sections on the roof so I don’t get over-spray on my tiled paths plus all the cleaning of the equipment so even spraying will take a bit of time.
Thanks for the warnings about Rustshield I was planing on getting some to try before committing the whole roof to see how well it would stick + now I can check for paint wrinkle!
I’ve already patched a few surface rusted areas and dents from tree branches with “Norshield Anti-Corrosive Primer – 2 pack epoxy primer for metal surfaces” and it seems to be ok.
I wouldnt use a soft broom…. but if time wasnt an issue theres no reason why you couldnt paint it with a big paint brush….Or you could just brush the sides of the cliplock…. then roll the middle with a small roller….
If you plan to spray it… the edges are quite difficult to get…. i use a superwide tip.. 1223 …. so as to get proper coverage on the edges….. if you pay someone to do it… make sure you check the edges… thats where everyone fails….
Thanks for your help Chookpoo.
One last question – are there any other roof paints that you’d recommend or do you think Shieldcoat’s products are one of the best?
For a cliplock roof i woulnt be to fussy about what i put on there…. i only use shieldcoat on tin because it tends to lay down well and mimic the look of new colorbond….
Nutech make decent finish coatings…. Astec paints make some decent stuff as well…. i certainly wouldnt go out of my way to use shieldcoat…. as its no better then any one elses…..
Just source something locally….
Astec make http://www.astecpaints.com.au/product/inside/cat/1/cat_doc/47/pro/123
Would achieve similar to rustshield t…
Bigger the company the bigger the overheads, the price averages between 15-20 a m2 for tile, there is a difference between just acrylic paint and roof paint, go and open a tin of paint and try and grab a handful? Couldn’t do it? Now do the same with the roof paint, and with all these do it your self people, have you got a pressure cleaner that runs 30lt per min and 5000psi? If you use a small eBay pressure cleaner you will leave old paint which will lift and peel the new paint off, have you got a $8000 airless spray gun? Need a big airless to spray the thick paint, and sand and cement for repointing??? There’s a new product called flexi point, it is a silicon based cement so it flexes with your roof where in the old days of sand and cement as soon as your roof shifts the pointing starts to loose its grip and crack,
My advise as a 3rd generation roof restorer is to get the pros in, if they are accredited by there paint supplier then even if they die the warranty is still there, you will get a lasting GLOSS finish, and for choosing colour dark colours fade fast light colours grow mold fast and never choose a blue colour, especially mountain blue fades the fastest of all so choose a nice in the middle colour, and ask for a licence of the contractor, most sub contractors are not licenced and don’t know what they are doing but think there king s@$t
Lets keep this thread active… i dont want this one to hit the archives…. if anyone has any q’s….. i check this thread actively… happy new year everyone 🙂
This is a very interesting thread. I’m located in Sydney and have a house built in 1921 which has the original ceramic glazed tiles, like so many around us in an old heritage listed estate.
I was told ages ago that the lichen and moss that grows on the tiles causes them to heat and cool at different rates, resulting in them eventually cracking. So this need to be removed and then the tiles “resealed”.
About 15 years ago we got talked into getting it done by what I assume is a “fly by night” operator who pressure cleaned, then sprayed the tiles with some kind of sealer. As an aside he did it on a breezy day and the spray got on a neighbour’s car, and it never came off, it didn’t worry them and they gave the car to a grandson who is still driving it I think.
The guy that did it said the tiles need doing about every 20 years and I’ve actually recently called one of the major roofing companies to quote me on it, but they refused saying they won’t touch tiles over 60-65 years of age.
So chookpoo and others, do they really need cleaning and sealing? Or do I let them go and eventually get a roof restoration, which I assume the company I called was hoping for.
I suspect they are already getting brittle as we had some renovation work done recently and the guy installing an exhaust duct broke a few tiles but didn’t tell us. Another tradie found it recently while replacing cliplock roof on another part of the house renovated 25-30 years ago.
I dread to think what a replacement of all the tiles would cost but need to consider it as part of our pre-retirement plan to ensure all major capital expenditure is done while we have income.
Thanks for any input, cheerz Wabster.
Some terracotta tiles are quite weak and it can be a challenge walking on them without breaking some…. Ive done them before where it feels like you break 2 tiles every time you go to replace one…..
Sealer is not going to strengthen them…. and any clear sealer you put on them isnt going to last more then around 4 years anyways… the sun breaks it down very quickly…
Theres probably nothing wrong with your tiles… just whoever walks on them has to be very careful….
Borals terracotta roof tiles come with a 50 year warranty….
http://www.boral.com.au/rooftiles/why-choose-terracotta-roof-tiles.asp
Its a pretty well held opinion that you should get up to 100 years out of terracotta… not to say you wont have to repoint it and change a tile or 2 on occasion…
Depending on the size of the house… around 12-14 thousand would get you a new colorbond Roof from any number of roofing companys….
But i say if it aint broke dont fix it…. maybe just get someone to look for broken tiles every few years…. or if you notice a leak inside..
I forgot about the cleaning… cleaning wouldnt hurt…. its completely cosmetic yes… but it helps to keep it clean to spot and replace breaks easier(not as slippery to walk on)…. and i dare say if nobodys touched the roof for 15 years the ridges are gonna need a repoint(at least) a rebed at worst…
Heres and extract from the CSIRO in regards Roof Restoration… its long but thought you might find it interesting.
PAINTING OLD CONCRETE ROOFING TILES
From Division of Building Research CSIRO Victoria.
Each year the Division receives many enquiries on the painting of old concrete roofing tiles. These enquiries are often triggered by roof restoration companies who confront homeowners with statements such as:
cement tiles were not meant to last for ever
lichens and moss eat into tiles (false)
CSIRO recommends our paint treatment (false)
weathering of the original surface coating make old tiles porous (false)
your roof and stumps will collapse if the tiles continue to soak up water (false)
The first concrete roofing tiles were manufactured in Europe in 1844. In Australia manufacture started in the 1920s. Many of these old roofs are still weatherproof and will probably remain so for many years. Until the early 1950s tiles were handmade by small companies. The demand for building materials following the second world war resulted in improved mechanisation, production and quality control.
Today, concrete roofing tiles are mechanically produced from a mixture of sand and cement. To improve their appearance they are then spray coated. Weathering erosion, fading and lichen growth will slowly change their colour and appearance. However, this causes negligible change in tile strength nor significant increase in porosity, even with total loss of the original surface finish. Concrete roof tiles, like all concrete products become stronger and less porous with time, unless subjected to extreme frost or air pollution. The porosity of concrete roof tiles, measured under laboratory conditions between the extremes of prolonged soaking and high temperature drying is less than 10%. In practice, the absorption of water by capillary action during periods of heavy rain would increase their weight by only 5%. Contrary to the, claims of some salesmen this weight increase is extremely unlikely to cause structural roof or stump failure. After prolonged rain it is normal for both old and new tiles to appear damp on the underside. This moisture can leave a water stain on the underside of tiles which is also normal and no cause for alarm. It does not cause fungal decay in roof framing timbers as temperatures are too high and moisture is not present long enough for the fungus to develop.
To Paint or Not to Paint
Appearance should be the only factor in deciding whether to paint or not to paint. If you want to improve the appearance of your roof then certainly paint it. If you are not concerned with the appearance, there is no need to paint. However, should you decide to have your roof cleaned and repainted, consider the following.
• Once painted, a roof will require repainting every five to ten years, if the appearance is to be retained.
• Check the economics carefully. Roof restoration companies usually charge up to several thousand dollars to clean and repaint the average sized roof. It is questionable if this money can be recouped on resale of the property. Advice from a local Real Estate Agent may clarify this aspect.
• Get at least three quotes from different companies before employing anyone.
• Beware of itinerant traders who move from suburb to suburb and do substandard work. Always obtain evidence that they have roofing trade qualifications, e.g. membership of the Slaters and Tilers Union in Victoria.
• Try to get identification and references of previous work.
Never be pressured into buying anything or signing a contract.
• Beware of guarantees and find out what they cover. Many things such as a change of company name, management, or bankruptcy can result in a guarantee not being honoured.
Cleaning and Painting
There are two options. Do it yourself, or get a qualified roofing tradesperson or roof restoration company to do it. To do it yourself, first clean off lichen growth. Although lichen do not eat into the tile surfaces and cause damage, they must he removed prior to painting, to ensure good bond between paint and tile. Lichen can he removed by high pressure water jet spray, available from plant hire companies. Alternatively. It can he killed using chemicals (see Information sheet 10-19 Ridding Roofs of Lichen Growth).
After cleaning, hose the roof down and while damp apply an acrylic primer undercoat, followed by an acrylic top coat. These can applied by brush or spray, carefully following the manufacturer’s directions. Note: Other paint types may perform poorly on concrete surfaces.
Leaks
As stated earlier, capillary water absorption does not normally cause roofs to leak. Leaks are usually confined to small areas and occur from other defects. If the root leaks you should check whether:
Flashings around chimneys. Party walls, vents etc. are in good condition. Flashings can fail due to weathering of the flashing material, or by dislodgement or loss of mortar where the flashing is let into the brickwork.
Tiles are holed, cracked, chipped or displaced. Damaged tiles should be replaced. If you can’t get the same size or profile it may be possible to repair them by using an epoxy resin filler. Displaced tiles should be moved back to their correct position.
Drainage channels under the sidelaps of the tiles are not blocked by dirt. If they are, lift a few tiles in the leak vicinity and wire brush clean.
• Cement mortar pointing along ridge caps is cracked away or has fallen out. Where necessary, repoint with a cement sand mortar of 1 part cement and 2 parts sand by volume.
• Eaves gutters or downpipes are blocked. This can cause water to flow into the eaves if the gutter is mounted high on the barge board. Lowering, or providing overflow outlets cut into the side of the gutter should also solve this problem.
• The roof pitch is less than that recommended by the manufacturer for the particular tile profile or shape used. If it is, the roof will have to be sarked. This is very costly and should only he considered as a last resort. It may be practical to only sark those parts of the roof which face the prevailing wind direction. Sarking involves lifting the tiles and tile battens and placing sarking materials such as reflective foil insulation between battens and rafters. The sarking should he overlapped at edges, taped and sloped to drain water to gutters and prevent ponding.
Note. Take care when walking on tiled roofs, particularly if they are wet and slippery. For safety, wear rubber-soled sandshoes. To avoid cracking or breaking always walk on the tile noses. At this point they are directly supported by roof battens. Never put your full weight on the middle of tiles.
In the above report..from 1987 ..lol…. they are wrong about applying the acrylic primer while the roof is damp…. The roof should be completely dry before painting…. trapping moisture under the membrane is not going to be a good thing. Plus nowadays we repoint in a flexible polymer pointing material…..
Heres a short refined version
————————————————————————————
Even though that salesman told you that you need to have your roof repainted or ‘resealed’ to stop the rain coming in or to save you money down the track or something similar….it’s just not true!
Your decision to paint your roof should be based on aesthetic reasons alone. Here’s some FACTS :
1. Concrete tiles become stronger and less porous with age.
(Like all concrete products)
2. During heavy rain, concrete tiles will absorb about 5% of their weight in water.
(The subsequent weight gain is most unlikely to cause any structural problems.)
3. It’s normal for tiles to appear damp on the underside after prolonged rain.
(This does not cause fungal decay in the roof timbers.)
4. Concrete tiles do not require repainting to maintain performance.
(The colour coating is purely decorative and plays no role in waterproofing.)
5. Terracotta tiles are fired and will never fade. To change the colour of terracotta tiles requires different paint products, and not possible if the tiles are glazed.
6. Terracotta tiles in particular can attract lichen and moss, particularly on the southern, shaded side of the building. This in no way detracts from the performance of the tile, nor will it weaken or “eat into” the tile.
7. All tiles, like anything, can become dirty over time. Both grime and lichen can be removed using high pressure water spray; sometimes chemical is necessary to ensure a complete job.
Thanks chookpoo, I appreciate your comprehensive and informative responses.
It will give me something to mull over for a while.
Interesting thing is that in this area with very strict heritage rules I would only be able to replace the roof tiles with the same style and colour, so Colourbond would be out of the question.
We had the gullys done some years ago and I assume too we will need repointing etc over time, and the concrete between the ridge capping seems to have deteriorated too so they come adrift a bit.
What I have to do is find a roofing pro who knows these old tiles roofs and their maintenance so I can keep the thing updated to minimise deterioration and problems with age generally,
Thanks again for your help, Wabster.
Hi chookpoo
Our roof needs repointing and some cracked tiles replaced but one of the reasons we were thinking of painting as well is that we’ve been looking into heat reflective paint.
What’s your thoughts about a product called insultech?
We’re just starting to get some quotes now but are nervous about being ripped off, your post about blowing the lid off the prices of roof restoration is an an eye opener!
We’re in Nth Brisbane would you be interested in quoting or could you recommend someone? I’ve sent you a whim.
Hi guys,
just found this forum.This is some great stuff for the home owners to get feed back that isn’t from a sales rep who just wants to get there signiture and a 10% deposite then be on there way.
Not to say there all just there to ripe you off because there not. There are a lot of roof restoration companies in Brisbane big and small that do a great job!
In my option if you look into the company you should be able to gauge if they are a reputable company and just make sure that you know who will be caring out the work on your roof, Make they are BSA licenced and experienced.
Cheers,
Thanks Chookpoo for educating us on roof work. My son has a leaking roof and has just had a quote for cleaning the roof, replacing broken tiles and sealing the roof. It sounds like he just needs to have a roof tiler repoint the ridge capping and replace broken and cracked tiles. Would you by any chance be interested in a job at Tewantin on the Sunshine Coast or be able to recommend a reputable licenced roof tiler? Thanks again
It says “The first concrete tiles were produced in Germany in 1844” which makes them 168 years old, not thousands. 🙂
That’s right…But terracotta I think at a guess probably have been around for a few thousand.
I’ve been getting quotes here in Melbourne for my roof, needs repointing and some valleys and ridges rebedding.
Biggish house around 250 sqm I guess.
Had a couple guys around, one quoted $1800, the other $1900 for rebedding as required and repoint everything, another $1000 to rebed everything.
I emailed a couple others, had a call from one guy yesterday, he immediately launched into an explanation about how there are so many cowboys in the industry, and the others who do good work are Modern and Roof Seal (!!!!!).
There followed a detailed explanation about how tiles absorb 3.5 times their weight in water so you have to paint them (Thought the CSIRO said it was about 15%).
Said he would get someone around. Now I was home all day, popped out to the supermarket and got a call from him saying he had the quote (didn’t notice him coming around). Apparently have 352sqm of roof and some figure of ridges. Full rebed and repoint would be $4990 and to paint as well would $8990 but he’d reduce that to $7990 
I said thanks very much but he’s about twice as much as everyone else, see ya!
Hi Mexiwe,
I am a roof restorer in brisbane in my option a fair price for that size house with a full rebed and point would be about $5000 – $5500 with a quality membrane coating system. Hope you find a good company to go with down there
Cheers
I agree, globalcote is a fine product….. the only issue i have with it is recently, after they hired the rep and put it in bristol and paint place, the price went way up…..
Im sure you know where the coating originated from…. and you would have to agree… they’ve done extremely well getting the brand recognised in brisbane….. and hats off to them for being able to command there current pricing in such a short time…
While they are still handing out restoration leads to the tradesman who buy it they will have a good following…… but when the leads slow down… and lately they have been i hear… the guys will look where the grass is greener (ie cheaper)…
Me i use “Colortile” in hillcrest…. and i pass all the savings straight back to the customer…. its made from a quality resin, and sold at a price that leaves every other paint manufacturer scratching there head…..
Sheildcoat were so threatened by it they just this year brought out a new 20lt roof membrane at the exact same price as colortile to try and snatch some of the market back…
However, the shieldcoat product is not rohm and hass 1038… so its cheaper to produce, and in all likelihood inferior.
Im a small time operator…. i run a simple two man team, and after 10 years of subcontracting, im only now trying to build something for myself…
I dont have a slippery tongued salesman to talk people into paying top dollar…. nor do i want one…..
I consider myself to be “wholesale”….. If i can be beaten on price, and often i am….. then corners must be being cut by the other guy….
Unfortunately, what i just said backfires on me quite a bit, as customers often think im the one who must be going to cut corners because of the price difference between myself and the big names….
End rant
Hi Chook,
Mate I wasn’t expecting such a long response into why you are using the paint called colortile! But that must be Johnny machincos paint at rooftech. The resin is a great formula it has been around for a long time.
I have never used it myself but i will be sure to pick up a drum and try it out.
I could go on and on about all the products I have tried in the past and what I think is a good product that will at least stand up 10 years.
I switched over to global cote because I believe the product will last.
I don’t care about an extra 50-60 dollars a drum because I know the client is getting a far better result at the end of the job, rather than using a inferior product.
And I’m not talking about the product your using.
I am talking about cheaper product that I could offer my customers.
I believe in doing the job wright and doing a quality job, the work just keeps coming through the door I find.
This is a cut throat industry with sales reps that would probably say anything to get the job with there slippery tounge but there are also a lot of shit tradesman floating around.
That’s why when I found this forum my advise to the home owners was to look into the company make sure they are licensed and the trades person doing the work is also licensed not some joe blow who has just started in the industry.
Mate all the best to you in the future hope you build something great for yourself.
Cheers,
Thanks for the reply…. May you win many quotes as well…. Theres a pretty good chance i at the very least know of you…. because if you are using globalcote… its likely you are southside and get your tiles at “South Side Roof Tile Supplies”…. We are certain to have crossed paths there at some point or another…
But lets maintain the mystery….
Hi All. Moved into our house sometime ago and after the recent downpours in Sydney we sprung a few leaks. We have had some heavy rains since we moved in and nothing happened but this was sustained for a few days. Anyway I have been on the roof and it looks rather old (concrete tiles). Some are cracked and I dare say just not sealed properely due to the age for the house. It is probably around 30 to 35 years old. The ridge capping looks like it needs replacing. Anyway does anyone know of a good roof tiler in Sydney? I am in the Northern Beaches area. Does anyone also know what I would be looking at if I needed to get the roof fully replaced? I think it would be around 132 square metres. Just figuring out what the worst case situation is. I am loathe to spend a decent amount on a temporary solution to the issue.
You should be able to get it replaced with colorbond for under 12k…..
Really – that sounds pretty low? I would definitely go that route instead of doing the membrane thing.
I am in Canberra and my roof is in a pretty poor state, I am getting the ridge capping rebedded and pointed and about 15 or so tiles replaced cause they are cracked.
Still tossing up whether to do a membrane coating for now and then replace the roof with colourbond a couple of years from now.
I am not sure what my roof area is but it would have to be around 360 sqm.
well i only know brisbane prices…. 360m however is twice the size…. so youd be around the 20k mark….
Thanks. So Colorbond is better? I had a builder mate who lives out of town say colorbond as well. Would I need to redo insulation etc as I would imagine colorbond could be hotter in summer and colder in winter. Anyway $12k sounds reasonable, I was thinking it would be worse than that. I assume tiles would be cheaper if I went that option.
Hi Chookpoo
I have just joined this forum soley to ask your advice (and any other pro’s)
I have been perusing many websites re concrete roof tile advice and your responses seem very knowledgeable and fair.
I would call you round for a quote but it may be too far for you as I am near Blackpool England 🙂 ….are poms allowed on this forum?:)
Anyway my question is at the end of this post…here is what has happened so far.
The house was built mid 60’s …concrete tiles on batons with a black bitumen looking underfelt
I have had a few small pieces of the (it’s the old bitumen based) roofing underfelt disintigrate/get damaged in my loft and water drips out of the gaps in heavy rain so have had buckets collecting it for a few weeks.
My brother in law is a good builder but keeps promising to come but never does (families eh!) so I decided I needed someone to do it ….There is a roofer who uses my local pub who seemed a decent guy so I asked him to come and quote…he quoted £600 to replace about 4 small areas with the new type grey breathable membrane and also pointed out the ridge tiles were pretty bad with some large gaps between and under them
I said OK thinking it would be a 2 day job or so at that price…he came today (with a mate) and did the membrane job in 2 hours…when I went went out to ask how long he estimated he said another couple of hours!
I queried £600 for 4 hours work and he said he could stop now if I wanted and just charge £100!…I said YES DO as the extra 2 hours doing the ridge tiles would mean another £500!…and I knew to do them properly would take longer than 2 hours!…I realised I was being ripped off!
SO to cut a long story short I decided to do the ridge tiles myself …I am a gas engineer by trade and have been on many roofs doing flues etc and am reasonably handy with a trowel and mortar etc….it’s only a small bungalow and you can reach the roof with a small ladder and the roof pitch is not too steep….been up it many times scraping moss/fitting aerials etc.
When I got up I found very large gaps and a few ridge tiles loose and easily lift offable
So I have spent 4 ½ hours today rebedding and pointing them and have only done about a third of them!
It looks a pretty neat job but …and FINALLY here is the question ..I have used a 3 sand to 1 cement mix and noticed in one of your post it advises a 2 to 1 mix …will the 3 to 1 be OK?…I will be carrying on tomorrow if it stays fine (today was the 1st non rainy day for ages but bl**dy cold at 4 degrees C (winter here :)) so can use a 2 to 1 mix tomorrow.
Also I have read in this thread about a flexible cement/grout …is normal sand cement ok? and will this itself need sealing?
Sorry for the long post I am sure I will have another question or 2 if that’s ok
Cheers
Tom
3 to 1 is fine…. heres a good local resource for you to read…
http://imt-roofing.co.uk/Flexible_roof_pointing.html
The mortar will be fine also… I probably would just stick with what you are doing….
The way we build roof’s in Australia is completely different to how you do it…. in many ways you style is superior…..
I wish i could be of more help….
Personally I think sarking should be a requirement of any roof being built, this house we bought has no sarking and when I go into the roof space I am looking at the underside of the roof tile. Rain can and does get into the roof when it is really windy when it rains.
i agree… i probably only see sarking in around 1 in 20 roofs i restore…. without sarking in high winds, your roof will always leak…
Thanks for the replies guys much appreciated.
Thanks for the link chookpoo…interesting read…am glad standard sand cement mortar is fine
I didn’t know you didn’t use ‘sarking’ in Oz
(Evidently the word sarking is common in Australia, New Zealand and Scotland but is new to me here in England …just roofing underfelt here)
I realise the weather there is vastly better than here (seems to be constant rain here) but what do you do then when it is raining with high winds and water leaks through? doesn’t it wet the loft insulation and eventually come through the ceiling?
Was going to get the rest done today but it’s looking very grey outside 😦 …wish I was there 🙂
Thanks again
Tom
Shows the difference in weather….I would imagine our premiums would be even more extortionate than they are now without sarking 🙂
Oh well I am going to make a start still grey but no rain yet and it has to be done 😦
Tom
doesn’t it wet the loft insulation and eventually come through the ceiling?
It sure as hell does, I am waiting for mine to dry out at the moment and then I will be doing some patch work.
I wish there was a way to retro fit sarking but unfortunately aside from pulling the tiles off and putting it in the redoing the tiles there is no other choice that I know of.
About a year ago we had a bunch of cowboys come through our street and quote for roof restorations. They didn’t bother me, as I have a colourbond roof.
End result was that about 20% of the street went with their ‘restorations’, one of my immediate neighbours got them to spray the roof and driveway with the same paint! They didn’t mask his colourbond fencing and got paint all over the bottom 1/3 of his fence. The other neighbour next to me had it done and I got muck from his roof all over my boat parked in my carport when they pressure cleaned the roof.
Hi,
With the latest storms in Brisbane, I need to get a quote for some roof leaks. I have the daunting task of find a reputable roofer and concerned about inadvertently inviting one of the above mentioned ‘cowboy’ to quote. Is there such a thing as a list of recommended trades people? Sorry if I am posting this in the wrong format and or forum – I have read this forum over the years for advice but have never participated.
Is there such a thing as a list of recommended trades people
I would be looking at people who specifically repair roofs, rather than people who do roof restorations.
If you can, inspect your roof beforehand, and note areas where the tiles are wonky, where the capping doesn’t look solidly attached, where there is excessive leaf matter in channels or gullies.
That way you can realistically interpret what the quote is for.
Has anyone had any experience with Davco’s Ormonoid Silvershield
http://www.davco.com.au/product.php?id_product=94
SilverShield
I spoke to Davco and was told
NO need for priming (Just clean and remove scale). Needs thorough mixing as it’s got suspended aluminium.
8 sqm/Litre
Turps cleanup
1,4 and 20Litre tins
http://www.davco.com.au/images/product/Silvershield.pdf
In builder hardware section / waterproofing stuff of stores. (Not in paint section)
Pricing at Bunnings is $97/4L or $134/20L (big diff!)
My old gal roof is covered with surface rust. After massive storms I have to get it spot repaired as leaks occur. This looks like a fairly good option to give me maybe 5-10 years before I do a complete new roof.
Hopefully someone can share their thoughts/experiences.
Id probably try to repair the leaks more thoroughly then with tar paint…. put some slip sheets into the rusted overlaps and anything in the middle repair with a fiberglass kit…
Then if you want to hold back the surface rust for a while…. paint with this…
http://www.shieldcoat.com.au/_literature_93052/Rustshield_AL_-_Data_Sheet
This thread seems to come up quite a bit in google search…. so… i gonna keep it alive…
my offer is still open….
Any resto or roof painting questions…. keep em coming… or whim me for something more personal about your roof… regards chookpoo
Hi,
Can someone recommend a company in Victoria who maybe able to assist to try and find a roof leak, the problem only occurs when we have very heavy rain. A couple of roofers have come and are unable to find the leak.
The roof is 12 years old with Boral cement tiles. I have not found any cracks and the weep holes appear to be ok. The mortar was replaced with flexipoint?? about 5 years ago.
Thanks.
Any resto or roof painting questions.
Hey CP, I have a question regarding membrane coatings on tile roofs. Will it effectively protect against rain penetration into the roof space? Our roof has no sarking under it so when I go into the roof space I am looking at the underside of the tiles and when it rains the wind can force the rain into the roof space causing damp patches and leaks onto the ceiling plasterboard.
It may help a little… making it a little more difficult for water to blow up under the tiles if its put on thick enough…. however, i certainly wouldnt regard painting as a solution to any kind of roof leak problem….
If you have quite a few water stains on you ceiling, my first guess would be leaking clips… thats if all the breaks have been replaced…
If you have quite a few water stains on you ceiling, my first guess would be leaking clips… thats if all the breaks have been replaced…
I think a few tiles have been repaired or replaced over the years. We recently had a leak near one of the roof windows and when I got up on the roof I found the tiles next to the roof windows were broken so I have fixed those.
I was looking at a roofing companies video from the USA on you tube the other night and what they did with the tile roof in Florida looked fantastic but it wasn’t just painting it and there were no gaps visible between the tile layers.
I notice over there they have roof paint products called “Roof Mastic”… a super thick resin thats brushed on to seal all the gaps…. we dont have that here… In my opinion it would be a last resort to use a product like that…. But i could see it would have its uses…
Anyone used Gold Coast company called Fortress Coatings that do membrane coatings? We have had a reasonable quote but nothing like word of mouth and experience
Its owned by Sam backo… he used to own Roof shield years and years ago in brisbane… who knows the game…. and his salesman will be playing it….
I know a guy who operates on the coast who i trust… whim me if you want his contact…
Meanwhile… dont be pressured in to signing a contract and handing a deposit over til you are %100 certain you want to go with them…
Hi chookpoo thank you very much for your advice on this thread, very interesting to hear it from someone without an agenda!
I myself am the owner of a 20yr old cliplock roof and was hoping for your advice.
I would like to repaint the faded yellow, woodlands grey and am convinced the roof is free of rust but will be getting sprayed by myself at 4000psi. I intend on using Nutech’s acapol and was hoping to avoid spray application purely because of the timeframe and my lack of experience between doing the 4 coats required (2 each direction) or so I’ve been told.
Is it all feasible to roller the top given the flashing will have to be brush painted anyways thus avoiding having to dial in the airless sprayer properly and cleaning it out at the end of the job? (i intend on hiring it so $$$ aswell)
Thanks
Hi there chookpoo, just wondering what your experiences have been like with the reflective coatings to reflect heat….are they worth the effort? I have a cliplock roof over one room, and it gets very hot over summer. I’m also lookig a getting roof restoration (some leaking clips and cracked tiles) done along with a repaint/membrane (the roof is ~30 years old and could do with a touch up). I’ve got quotes from a couple of companies that seem reasonable given some of the figures given in here, can i whim you the company details and get some feedback as to you experinces with them?
Is it all feasible to roller the top given the flashing will have to be brush painted anyways thus avoiding having to dial in the airless sprayer properly and cleaning it out at the end of the job?
Ive never used that nutech product… Im assuming its probably a xylene based acrylic?
I see no reason why you couldnt brush and roll it on… the finish will be a bit sloppier… but being a cliplock roof… i doubt you will ever see it (because they are flat).
If you get a wide enough tip… you can hit both the edges in one pass… i use a 1221 on those….. a 2 foot fan….. then you can manage proper coverage in 2 good coats…
just wondering what your experiences have been like with the reflective coatings to reflect heat
Hi, heat reflective coatings are snake oil…. a complete waste of money… 99% of there effect is based on the colour you choose……
If you want a cooler roof… go light… but be prepared for it to get really mouldy….
Unless you live in mt isa…. or somewhere really dry…
Thank you for the reply,
Regarding the acapol, i was told this thinners based product creates a better finish then a water based paint.
Thats going off opinion tho, i would prefer to use a water based paint if theres no reason not to. Do have any reason in particular to use anything other then water based?
Thanks
The thinners based paint will protect from corrosion better… If sprayed it will probably lay down a little better because of the longer drying time… Im sure it will stick just a little better as well….
It also has the potential to be an overspray nightmare…. thinners based coatings tend to float around a lot more… and sometimes you get “cobwebbing” when sprayed through an airless….. making them even messier….
If you get waterbased overspray on a car its quite easy to get off…. but if its thinners based….. its clay bar and cut and polish time…
Needing some advice on my aging colorbond roof here in Brisbane and after a bit of research I stumbled across this thread on whirlpool.
I was impressed with the knowledge displayed by CP on the subject and engaged him to provide a quote and advice which was different to what I was thinking in terms of colour.
Anyways I went with his services recently and am very impressed with the outcome with respect to the quality of advice, price, service and the roof looks great.
Pressure clean, antirust agent on some rusting screws, then primer and two coats of paint and viola a new roof at a fraction of the price of new tin … and with a warranty against peeling for seven years.
An aging heritage green colorbond roof is now a nice shale grey awaiting the new guttering.
Interesting thread and some great advice/information.
I’m now looking to get our (14 year old tiled) roof restored and was wondering if anyone could recommend any Sydney roof restoration companies?
Maybe website recommendations with reviews????
Met chookpoo on the weekend when he came to look at my roof which has some minor leaks. Gave me good honest advice – no hard sell whatsoever – and referred me to roof tiler when it was clear I wasn’t after a full restoration at the moment.
The bloke chookpoo referred me to came out today, repointed the capping to a high standard and replaced several cracked tiles all for a very competitive price. Its hard to find good tradesman these days – over the years I’ve dealt with plenty that over-promise and under-deliver or try to rip you off. Chookpoo and his contacts are the genuine article and I would happily recommend to anybody.
More Praise? Thanks again!
This is going to start looking dodgy soon… This thread has been good to me, ill admit… Im happy to give advice… And im happy to look at peolpes roof’s ; No strings attached…
I apologise if anyone who has contacted me has slipped through the cracks so to speak, I tend to get quite a few whim’s… and sometimes i get confused as to who i said what when too…
So if you really want something from me… just rewhim… i never intentionally ignore whims.
Hey chookpoo,
We are looking at getting some work on our roof in the coming month or so… (northside brissy)
Nothing leaks & to my untrained eye, all the points/capping look OK. We are mostly looking for a paint job for cosmetic reasons, but wouldn’t mind having someone who knows what they are talking about, look over it at the same time.
We’ve also got a few skylights that could use a refresh too.
It’s an average size house, so I’m guessing a bit over 200 sq m.
Any ideas on a rough cost estimate?
Anyone you’d recommend in the area?
Thanks in advance!
Some terracotta tiles are quite weak and it can be a challenge walking on them without breaking some…. Ive done them before where it feels like you break 2 tiles every time you go to replace one…..
Sealer is not going to strengthen them…. and any clear sealer you put on them isnt going to last more then around 4 years anyways… the sun breaks it down very quickly…
Hi all, I came across this thread after searching on sealing tiles- I havent spoken to any roof restorers at this point. I have terracotta tiles on my house (built 1990 i think) and I was on the roof cleaning my gutters the other day after some heavy rain and it appears to my untrained eye that they are breaking down. They appear to be succeptable to some kind of mould, feel quite soft when wet- ie I can scratch them quite easily with a nail. When the roof is wet or even damp there is a slippery terrracotta paste like substance that rubs off on anything that touches it.
When I gave the tiles a quick hit with the gurney to remove the mould they came up looking real nice but the amount of red running off the house was a bit alarming- this was more than just a bit a of colour weeping from the terracotta- it looked like a pilbara carwash! ( and I was covered in the stuff)
So after making the above observations I figured the tiles needed glazing or sealing or something.
Apart from this the roof is in good nick- no major breaks or leaks I’m aware of (apart from the ones I broke while I was up there.)
Is this normal for terracotta tiles? Am I going to damage them with the high pressure cleaner? (all that red crap has to be coming from somewhere.)
G’day chookpoo, I’d like your opinion. Have you been asked to repaint a roof that has solar panels in place? This post might be more appropriate in the Green Tech forum but I’m wondering what procedures would be needed to be followed. Apart from the obvious overspray issues would high pressure cleaning adjacent to the panels cause any mishap?
Is this normal for terracotta tiles? Am I going to damage them with the high pressure cleaner? (all that red crap has to be coming from somewhere.)
Hi, no that isnt normal for terracotta tiles… are you sure they are terracotta’s?
It is very common for red concrete tiles to have a LOT of oxide wash off when cleaning… if you arent sure if they are concrete or not, take a look on the underside…. itll be obvious on that side…
If its concrete…. its safe to clean… ive never seen a terracotta leech any colour before…
Apart from the obvious overspray issues would high pressure cleaning adjacent to the panels cause any mishap?
Ive washed around heaps of them…. and i wash under them as far as you can see…. ive not had any problems YET…..
I generally tape em up with a tape and plastic dispenser…. then after the roof is sprayed i get a small roller and roll under all the edges as far as you can see…
Thanks chookpoo, great info you’ve provided.
Got a question for you. I’m getting quotes on a roof restoration, and one guy said he does the pointing at the end of the job, instead of just before painting. Says it looks better than spraying over the pointing. Is there any benefit to this?
one guy said he does the pointing at the end of the job, instead of just before painting. Says it looks better than spraying over the pointing.
Hi, are you in Brisbane? As i know a guy who does that…. and i thought he was the only one….
It has its pro’s and con’s…
Or i should say pro and con…
Pro…. It looks like a new tiled roof… like it wasnt painted…. just newly tiled..
Con….. The Membrane prevents the flexible pointing from degrading… it preserves it.. meaning the next time you paint it…. you will probably get away without a full repoint..
I personally have no problem with the look of shiny newly painted pointing…. but each to there own…
Hi Chookpoo,
I was wondering if you know who can reseal one of those white flat fibreglass looking roof sections that they put over patios on the 1960’s weatherboard houses? I have one that is cracked and peeling, and needs to be stripped back and recoated, but nobody wants to touch it really as it isn’t standard repointing or tiling work.
Have you ever worked on them?
I sent you a whim a week or two back but I’m not sure it got through to you as I’m new to whirlpool!
Thanks,
Tony
Hi, im sorry…. i got your whim, and some others, but ive been a bit behind in my reply’s lately as my wife had a baby just recently… and its been messing with my life… ha ha ha..
I cant say i have seen what you are talking about… ill reply to your whim in the next few days…. im sure there will be something we can do with it….
chat soon..
Thanks Chookpoo,
The baby takes priority mate! No worries about the whim…I just wasn’t sure if I had even sent it correctly.
The roof coating is common around here. A quick look at google earth over my suburb and you will see a few of them. They only last for about 10 years though so people must be resealing them via somebody…I just don’t know who. I don’t mind changing it to something else though (I’ve thought about tin) but the cheapest way to do it is to reseal it I’d say. I had one guy lined up to do it but he kept delaying and avoiding it for bigger jobs, but I think he was going to waterblast as much off as possible and then reseal it (probably with something pretty stock standard).
Anyway, have a look at the whim I sent (including the link) when you can, and let me know if you can point me in the right direction!
Thanks CP.
Tony
Thanks chookpoo. I’m in Sydney, and this guy is the only one I’ve come across who has said he re-points after painting.
I think I will go with this method as I prefer the new tiled roof look.
And congrats on the new bub.
Hi Chookpoo,
I am on the Gold Coast and looking for a reputable guy to restore our roof. Do you do work on the coast? If not, can you recommend someone who I can trust?
Hi, great forum and cool to see it last for a couple of years.
Chookpoo, your knowledge and will to offer advice is wonderful. I’m hoping you can guide me with some of this knowledge too. Here are my stats:
. Roof is 33 years old.
. Roof has flat cement tiles – pitch of the roof and underlying structure such as battings are fine.
. Last rain we had 3 or 4 large ceiling marks present and each big rain we tend to see marks
. House is quite large – ranch style with dimensions of around 30m x 11m.
. Have had 3 quotes so far. Each said there are over 100 tiles broken and 168 points which need treatment. We also have no sarking.
. Two of the quotes are from independents and both stated the entire roof should be replaced with new, non flat, tiles as any patch job would be useless with these tiles and with no sarking. Each quote was around 28k
. The third was from roof seal who was confident they could restore including adding their membrane coating and moss removal etc. they quoted 16k for this job.
My question is two fold …
1. whether you feel I need to replace the entire roof with better, non flat, tiles or do a repair/restore to fix broken Tiles and points etc.
2. This is a hell of alot of money im going to have to fork out so do you recommend any tilers in the east of melbourne, which us where I’m located, whom I can trust would do a good job no matter which direction I have to go?
Thanks.
So the tiles are dead flat? no humps at all? If so, they are correct… should have been sarked… any break will be a leaking break on that kind of profile…
However…. as long as there arent any breaks, including water course breaks (more difficult to see) …. and as long as it doesnt have monier clips….. and as long as the roof is at the correct pitch for the rafter length…. it shouldnt leak (except when wind blows up under the noses)…
I saw where someone said a tiled roof only lasted 7 years. Mine has been there 44 years and has a Monier Tile 50 year warrant for what its worth. It took about 20 years for the mould to take over and discolour, and water jetting it now exposes the bare surface. No leaks. Repointing is needed.
They certainly wont maintain the “new Look” for more then 7 years… but what roof will?
But if laid correctly… should last a lifetime…..(not without regular maintenance)
Thanks for the reply. Yes our tiles are completely flat and with so many broken it probably is a bett option to replace.
The third question I had is about pricing. The prices I was quoted seems excessively high. Way is your opinion of the quoted prices for the size of roof I mentioned?
Cheers.
You could probably get the whole roof removed/replaced … sark installed.. and existing breaks repaired for under 10k… that would leave it water tight…. then you’d only need to worry about then painting if the look bothered you…
I live in Wynnum, your typical 40yo highset in the area and had a cold call from a salesperson who had done a house in the neighborhood.
He went up on the roof, bought down some ‘aged’ and cracked tiles to show me, took some photos and quoted $4.8k for restoration including tile replacement (their estimate is 25), clean, repoint, primer and 2 coats.
I went into the roof space this morning after Brisbane’s recent rains and could see 4 obvious cracked tiles and about a dozen spots where water was on the edge of the tiles. Little other evidence of water in the roof over the last week of Brisbane rain.
I see my choices as (1) roof tiler to come in, replace tiles and redo points and check seating of tiles or (2) restoration.
Interested to hear points of view.
Chookpoo, have sent a whim to seek your interest or if you know a reputable roof tile in the Wynnum-bayside region that would be happy to do “roof repair” and whether $4.8k for a roof restoration is a decent price based on typical Wynnum area highset house?
Hi,
I’m new to this forum and currently dealing with a couple of quotes, with a company JMZ roofing trying to sell us on Globalcote Roof Membrane Coating and its superiority to other products. We have a metal roof that is probably from the orig build in 1988 and no leaks, just faded (powdery) and the screw tops are rusted. It is a large roof and high pitch and were also looking at gutters and facias being done too – quotes coming at around $7k total, which was similar from a local guy using a different product (Scaffolding would be needed)
Has anyone used JMZ or know what their like and from the other comments am I to assume I should forget even considering a quote this high or is it justified with some roofs. I thought the local guy would come in cheaper but when it come in around the same I am now not sure if the JMZ quote is expensive or a standard cost or if their both a rip off?
Chookpoo I sent you through a whim too if your interested?
Hi Guys, I am new here and am looking for info on re-restoring my cement tile dual pitch roof. I had my roof restored some 17 years ago by Roof Shield and was wondering if I get it restored again do I have to pressure wash all the way back to the base tile as there some areas where the Roof shield membrane has peeled from the tile.
Hi, it all depends on how much paint starts coming off when pressure cleaning…. sometimes all you need to do is wash the paint back to a solid edge then seal it same day to prevent it from rolling back further… sometimes you practically need to strip it all…
If i haven’t effectively followed up on any whims for anyone… please let me know…. i know some have slipped through the cracks… please contact me again if you need help with something and i ignored you…
Hi Chookpoo, thanks for all the great information! I too am looking to get my roof painted and am located in brisbane. If you are interested please let me know, I have sent you a whim. Thanks again mate – really appreciate it. Guy.
Hi chookpoo – sent you a whim also about taking a look at my roof in North Brisbane. If you get a chance to reply that would be great!
Many thanks to everyone who has kept this thread alive, it has been very informative and thought provoking reading. Like many I’m looking at roof restoration and have been going back and forth over the sealer and paint question.
Chookpoo, a big thank you to you for all the advice and preparedness to keep answeringestions for those of us who don’t have the knowledge in this area to make informed decisions, you are providing a valuable service.
I’d very much appreciate your thoughts on my roof, I’ve sent you a whim.
Keep up the good work.
Hi chookpoo, thanks for sharing all the information regarding roof restoration. I have sent you a whim. Appreciate if you can get back to me on this.
Thanks
Hi all,
I was wondering if someone could advise me on Acrylic Roof Coat Membrane for a tin roof. Will it keep our house cooler in Summer? or is it purely for cosmetic purposes? My hubby and I were quoted $4000 to restore our 4 bedroom tin roof. Apparently 350 of our screws need to be replaced?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Will it be a worthwhile process for us?
Hey all,
looking at getting my roof fixed up. plenty of cracked cerment tiles but i know a bloke who works at boral so it might be cheaper if i get the tiles (30 odd) through him and replace them myself.
so id assume id need someone to replace the capping as alot of the mortar is cracked and ive had to silcon up a couple of the ridge capping to ‘replace’ the mortar.
looking at selling in 18-24 months time so not keen on spending much, just someone who can fix up and paint as the tiles would be 30 years old.
any recommendations in adelaide would be appreciated, either whim me or reply here.
thanks alot guys
My hubby and I were quoted $4000 to restore our 4 bedroom tin roof
I guess it all depends on the size… pitch… whether or not its high set ect…
It doesnt sound stupidly unreasonable….. but there a lot of factors in play..
any recommendations in adelaide
Im afraid i only know brisbane…. tell you what.. if your selling… theres some DIRT cheap prices for resto’s available if you post on service seeking…. Quality of work UNKNOWN…. but if you know what your looking at.. and pay at the end.. you might get lucky..
Hi Chookpoo – just sent you a whim asking for contract details as I need work on my roof too. thanks
When we bought our current house on the Gold Coast the building inspector told us that quite a few of the screws on our colorbond roof were rusting and suggested that we get them replaced before they start damaging the colorbond sheets.
Additionally the colorbond surface is starting to go powdery as they are about 20 years old.
I was going to do the job myself but due to a couple of recent health problems I decided to get some quotes on replacing the rusted screws and then recoating the roof. Since we were going to get the roof recoated I thought we might change the colour from Heritage Red to something like Surfmist to cool the roof space down and we also like the lighter colours (although with some of the comments about light colours going moldy in various other threads I’m not so sure now – does normal surfmist colour bond also go modly?).
Anyway, I sent out 8 email requests/website forms for quotes to various companies. 4 replied to me and 3 could come by immediately for a quote (the other one said they couldn’t quote for 3 weeks or so).
I now have 3 quotes for the following work.
1. The first company said that they would replace the rusty screws (they estimated about 1000) and rust kill any suss spots, they would then pressure wash and spray the roof and gutters with 2 coats of Dulux AcraTex 962. They reckon that if the colorbond sheets still have a good coating of the original paint without the metal showing through all they need to do is clean and they don’t need to use a primer coat. They are a local GC family company. The son is now running the company and says that he has been doing it for about 12 years since taking over from his father who did it before him.
2. The next company says that they will replace the rusty screws (they didn’t estimate how many would need replacing) and rust kill any suss spots, they would then pressure wash and spray the roof with a primer and 2 coats of Dulux AcraTex 962 and hand paint the gutters. They are a local GC painting company that says they have been in the business for 15+ years.
3. The last company says that they will replace all the screws on the roof and rust kill any suss spots, they would then pressure wash and spray the roof with a primer and 2 coats of another brand which I can’t remember and spray/hand paint the gutters. They are a Brisbane/Sydney based company that has been doing work in QLD for about 2 years and Sydney for 10 years before that.
The problem is that the first quote differs quite widely from the next two. The first guy reckons he can do the job for $6,170, the next guy reckons $12,980 and the last guy $14,600. I know we have a pretty large roof but the last two quotes are really out of our budget.
The question is do I go with the “cheapest” quote that is half the price of the next quote as we want to have a decent job on our house that will last. And will them not using a primer affect the Dulux warranty or the longevity of the paint job?
I have sent Dulux a question as to whether the AcraTex 962 requires a primer coat but I don’t know when/if I’ll get a response. I know there are some paints that don’t require a primer, but if this one does I would want to use it and it would also make me suspect of the “advice” that a primer wasn’t required and therefore how suspect will the work be.
The guy seemed pretty helpful and he both quotes and does the job so he wasn’t just a sales guy. He suggested that, especially with the lighter colours, I wouldn’t really need the cool roof version of the paint so he wasn’t trying to upsell me or anything like that. If a primer is required/recommended then I could ask him to quote me again with the primer I guess.
Any advice?
Hi…. a primer will only be required if after the roof is cleaned… you can still wipe off some of the oxidisation (powdery broken down paint residue) with your finger….. then its probably not a bad idea to put on a primer to help penetrate and seal it down….
The last 2 quotes you got sound absolutely ridiculous…
However.. if i were you i would probably ask to look at a dark coloured tin roof the guy has done before…. as there a bit of an art in spraying them so they dont come out patchy… And with hot weather coming up….. it gets more difficult..
The light colours are generally a bit more forgiving though…
The first quote seems very reasonable… especially considering it includes 1000 rescrew plus gutter painting…
If you want a better idea of what it would cost… whim me you adress and ill take a look on google earth pro…. i can measure it and give you something pretty accurate..
regards chookpoo
Hi Chookpoo
You may be able to help me – I live in Melbourne in a two storey flat roof house built in the 1950’s. I understand the roof has a concrete base with a malthoid asphalt cover. There is no slope on the roof or gutters. The water simply evaporates. At the moment we have some leaks and we are weighing up options to repair the roof either by spot repairs or re-sheeting the whole roof with liquid rubber or something similar. Someone suggested a metal deck roof with grade and box gutters but whatever we do it will be expensive and we are being quoted $15K to $40K. Do you have any ideas or contacts in Melbourne who might assist us?
Thank you for your help.
Brickbat
Im afraid i have no experience in waterproofing flat concrete roofs…. I dare say the cheapest option would have to be applying some kind of waterproof membrane… be it liquid rubber or similar….. You should probably talk to some waterproofing businesses…. I dare say it would be more there field of expertise then a roofers..
Sorry i cant be of more help
This thread shows a few points on “problems” with painting “membranes” over
cement tiles..I have inherited a loo loo by purchasing a home (now six years
ago) which had a “membrane” applied in 2007. Receipts show the company doing the work gave 12 year warranty…company kaput and so is membrane.
Colour matching is my biggest problem as the “Grecian terracotta” colour named
on the invoice appears unknown to suppliers contacted to date..Does anyone
know a reputable supplier of roof paints which may colour match existing
roof colour as some of the tiles need replacing/and hence painting to match.Brisbane based, ps.looked for ‘colortile’ at hillcrest referenced by chook poo but no results from
net showed.
any tips other than total redo would be appreciated. thanks
Hi.. i misspelled it.. its actually Colourtile..
Site is http://www.rooftechservices.com.au/page/colourtile-acrylic-roof-coatings/default.asp
Its recently changed hands so the ph number is probably wrong…. whim me and ill give you the new owners mobile..
If you are just looking to colour match paint for some replacement tiles… you would be FAR better off just going to a standard paint shop or hardware store.. take the tile with you… and pick something close off one of the fan decks…
Buy it in “Low sheen” exterior paint… you will find it will match the sheen of your old paint job better…
Another trick is to pull old tiles out from the gutter line in a less visible area… and just replace that area with the new painted tiles…. obviously the old tiles wont stand out no matter where you put them on the roof.. but ANY newly painted ones will always look slightly different..
Regards Chookpoo
Hello all, as you can see Im new and this is my first post.
I have been reading this very informative post, I have a situation at the moment and I’m wondering if there is anyone on here that may be able to help or at least give me some guidance.
Greenbank 10th Nov. 2013 we had a BAD storm. the hail was pelting down with vengeance and anger . I have a tudor style home with cement tiles. it seems as though the hail has knocked off the colour coating from the ridge caps and some of the tiles, as we are on tank water only all of our water is contaminated (RED).
The insurance assessor came out, had a look and said:
“An inspection of the roof to the property has revealed that the roof tiles have a layer of dirt
and debris on them and many of the tiles have moss growing on the bottom edge.
All roofs have a layer of dirt and debris on them, this becomes more apparent when the roof has not been cleaned for a long period of time.
The hail has knocked the layer of dirt and debris off the roof tiles and the original red colour has become more visible.
This roof has not had the tiles painted or sealed for many years, possibly since construction approx 35 years ago. We do not believe that the hail has damaged or pitted the roof tiles and as per all roofs when they are not sealed of painted, if the roof tiles is rubbed with a finger, the finger turns red from the colouring on the tile. We believe that the roof tiles are deteriorating due to age and natural wear and tear and not as a result of the storm which has passed through the area.”
we have had many storms over the past 10 years, my roof tiles have never contaminated the water supply and they certainly were not GREY prior to the storm. The roof was cleaned and sealed (NOT REPAINTED) approx 6 years ago.
Any help would be appreciated.
HOS
As soon as the older red roof’s lose there glaze the powdery red oxide is exposed and will break down and wash off… eventually all of it will wash off… but that takes a long time..
They hail has just cleaned some spots for you… hail oftens leaves dirty roofs a bit leopard spotted..
This happens on all tiles, but is very obvious on the red tiles because the oxide is so strong….. They are by far the messiest roof’s to clean, because it just goes everywhere…
A really good clean will take care of most of it…. however after cleaning… the red roof’s go pink… so cosmetically they look a bit rubbish..
A well prepared paint job would seal the oxide… it would prevent prevent any oxide run off for a very long time…
Regards Chookpoo
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Brisbane Roof Restorations 